Why dry skin may be experienced differently across populations, and what it means for people with skin of colour
Dry skin (xerosis) is common for everyone, from athletes grinding through winter training to people navigating cold, dry cities. But while anyone can experience dryness, research shows that differences in skin structure can shape how dry skin impacts people from different ethnic backgrounds.
Understanding these nuances helps move skincare beyond myths and toward barrier-first care grounded in science and lived experience.
WHAT SCIENCE TELLS US ABOUT SKIN AND ETHNICITY
Skin’s outermost layer, the stratum corneum, functions as a protective shield that prevents moisture loss and environmental irritation. Differences in this barrier have been observed between ethnic groups, although findings are complex and still evolving.
BIOLOGICAL VARIATION IN BARRIER PROPERTIES
Some research suggests variations in lipid composition, ceramide levels, and transepidermal water loss across populations. These elements influence how effectively skin retains hydration and repairs itself after irritation. However, results vary between studies and often depend on environmental exposure and sample size.
DRY SKIN ITSELF IS NOT UNIVERSALLY MORE COMMON IN ONE ETHNICITY
Large-scale studies have not definitively shown that any single ethnic group consistently experiences dry skin more frequently than others. In many cases, environmental factors such as climate, water quality, and skincare practices play a larger role than ethnicity alone.
HOWEVER, CONDITIONS LINKED TO DRYNESS CAN SHOW ETHNIC PATTERNING
Where research becomes clearer is in inflammatory skin conditions like eczema and psoriasis, both of which involve skin barrier dysfunction and chronic dryness.
ETHNICITY, ECZEMA, AND SKIN BARRIER VULNERABILITY
IS ECZEMA MORE COMMON IN MINORITY POPULATIONS
Evidence suggests that atopic dermatitis (eczema) affects people of all ethnicities but appears to show higher prevalence and severity in certain minority groups, particularly those with skin of colour.
For example:
- Studies in the United States have found higher rates of eczema diagnosis among Black children compared with White children.
- Some research also indicates eczema may present more severely or persist longer in Black and Asian populations.
- Patients with darker skin tones may experience more intense itching, thickened skin, or pigment changes rather than visible redness, which can delay diagnosis or treatment.
Researchers believe this disparity is likely influenced by a combination of:
- Genetic and immune response differences
- Variations in skin barrier function
- Environmental exposures
- Healthcare access disparities
- Underrepresentation in dermatological research
Importantly, eczema does not simply occur 'more' because of ethnicity, but interacting biological and social factors may increase the likelihood of skin conditions in some communities.
HOW ECZEMA CAN LOOK DIFFERENT ON SKIN OF COLOUR
Eczema has historically been taught using images of lighter skin, which can create recognition gaps.
On darker skin tones, eczema may present as:
- Purple, grey, or dark brown inflammation instead of redness
- More pronounced dryness or ashiness
- Thickened or leathery skin from chronic irritation
- Increased risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation
These differences can sometimes lead to delayed treatment or misdiagnosis, reinforcing why education and representation matter in dermatology.
ETHNICITY AND PSORIASIS: WHAT RESEARCH SHOWS
DOES PSORIASIS AFFECT ETHNIC GROUPS DIFFERENTLY?
Psoriasis, another inflammatory skin condition linked to dryness and barrier disruption, shows variation in prevalence across ethnic populations.
PSORIASIS MAY BE UNDERDIAGNOSED OR DIFFERENTLY EXPERIENCED IN MINORITIES
Research consistently suggests:
- Psoriasis tends to be most prevalent in White populations, particularly in Northern European ancestry.
- Reported prevalence is often lower in Asian, Black, and Hispanic populations.
However, lower diagnosis rates do not necessarily mean psoriasis is less burdensome.
WHY INFLAMMATORY SKIN CONDITIONS REINFORCE DRY SKIN DISPARITIES
Both eczema and psoriasis involve:
- Compromised skin barrier function
- Increased transepidermal water loss
- Chronic inflammation
- Heightened sensitivity to irritants
Because these conditions appear to disproportionately impact certain minority groups in prevalence, severity, or clinical recognition, they contribute to the perception, and lived experience, that dry skin can be more burdensome for people with skin of colour.
THE ROLE OF HEALTHCARE REPRESENTATION AND ACCESS
Another key factor influencing dry skin burden across ethnic groups is representation within dermatology research and education.
Historically:
- Dermatological training materials have centred lighter skin presentations
- Clinical trials have underrepresented diverse skin tones
- Patients with skin of colour may face delays in diagnosis or treatment
Improving representation in research and education is essential to reducing disparities in inflammatory skin conditions linked to dryness.
EXPERT TAKEAWAYS
Dry skin is universal, but its experience is not identical across populations.
Current research suggests:
- Dry skin itself is not exclusively linked to ethnicity
- Eczema shows higher prevalence and severity in some minority populations
- Psoriasis prevalence varies but may be underdiagnosed in skin of colour
- Dryness is often more visible on darker skin tones
- Healthcare access and research representation influence treatment outcomes
This reinforces the importance of barrier-focused skincare, that supports skin repair across all skin tones and lived experiences. In our previous articles, we've shared how the ingredients found in Yendra's Second Skin Rescue Balm consistently work to repair your skin barrier, reduce inflammation, and deliver lasting relief.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS - DRY SKIN, ETHNICITY, AND INFLAMMATORY SKIN CONDITIONS
Is eczema more common in people of colour?
Eczema affects all ethnicities, but research suggests higher prevalence and severity in some minority populations, particularly Black children. Differences in presentation and healthcare access may also influence diagnosis rates.
Does psoriasis affect ethnic groups equally?
Psoriasis appears most common in White populations, but it can be underdiagnosed or misidentified in skin of colour and may cause greater pigment-related complications.
Why can inflammatory skin conditions appear different on darker skin?
Higher melanin levels change how inflammation appears, often producing darker, purple, or grey discolouration instead of redness.
Does ethnicity determine skin health?
No. Skin health is influenced by genetics, environment, healthcare access, and lifestyle. Ethnicity can influence risk patterns, but it is only one factor.
How can people prone to eczema, psoriasis, or chronic dryness support their skin barrier?
Dermatologists often recommend:
- Regular moisturisation using occlusives and barrier-repair ingredients
- Gentle cleansing routines
- Avoiding harsh exfoliation or fragranced irritants
- Early treatment of inflammatory flare-ups